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		<title><![CDATA[VoltsAndBolts Alternative  Power Forums - All Forums]]></title>
		<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[VoltsAndBolts Alternative  Power Forums - http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com]]></description>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:17:56 -0700</pubDate>
		<generator>MyBB</generator>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Sing up it’s free and easy.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=48</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Nov 2008 11:28:36 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=48</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Start sharing your ideas on energy with the rest of us. We wnt to hear what you have to say.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Start sharing your ideas on energy with the rest of us. We wnt to hear what you have to say.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Lower gas prices... For now.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=47</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 05 Nov 2008 10:56:59 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=47</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Well I have notice as I’m sure you have too the price of oil / gas has gone down a bit. I hope this improvement in our economic situation will not turn people away from trying to find a better more economic way to power there world. <br />
<br />
V&B]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Well I have notice as I’m sure you have too the price of oil / gas has gone down a bit. I hope this improvement in our economic situation will not turn people away from trying to find a better more economic way to power there world. <br />
<br />
V&B]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Subaru EV on the way?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=46</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Oct 2008 09:57:42 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=46</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Subaru<br />
<br />
Subaru recently announced that they are fleet testing the R!e.  This is a small subcompact electric car, about the size of a Smart fortwo, based on the Japanese companies R1e mini-car.  The car uses a 40 KW electric motor driven by a lithium-ion battery pack that gives the car a top speed of around 65 mph and a range of 50 miles.  The Lithium pack is projected to last for 10 years or 130,000 miles.  The battery pack can be charged up to 80% in about 15 minutes using a high power dedicated charger or the car can be charged overnight using a standard 110V household outlet.<br />
 <br />
Fleet test are currently being conducted in Japan, the UK and USA.  Subaru plan to do consumer testing in Japan starting in 2009 and sales to the public could start in 2010.<br />
 <br />
See the announcement of on Fleet testing by New York Power and Light from the New York Auto Show courtesy of youtube<br />
<br />
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NNdYcPXkWc&feature=user]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Subaru<br />
<br />
Subaru recently announced that they are fleet testing the R!e.  This is a small subcompact electric car, about the size of a Smart fortwo, based on the Japanese companies R1e mini-car.  The car uses a 40 KW electric motor driven by a lithium-ion battery pack that gives the car a top speed of around 65 mph and a range of 50 miles.  The Lithium pack is projected to last for 10 years or 130,000 miles.  The battery pack can be charged up to 80% in about 15 minutes using a high power dedicated charger or the car can be charged overnight using a standard 110V household outlet.<br />
 <br />
Fleet test are currently being conducted in Japan, the UK and USA.  Subaru plan to do consumer testing in Japan starting in 2009 and sales to the public could start in 2010.<br />
 <br />
See the announcement of on Fleet testing by New York Power and Light from the New York Auto Show courtesy of youtube<br />
<br />
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6NNdYcPXkWc&feature=user]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Good links for Bio-D info]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=45</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 28 Sep 2008 15:27:53 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=45</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[There was a good article in Bronco Driver Magazine this month(Sept/Oct 2008) on making Bio-D I am posting some of the reference links here. Go take a look but remember to come back here to discus it or comment.<br />
<br />
Biodiesel & SVO Forums    http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums   <br />
<br />
<br />
Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial  http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/ <br />
<br />
<br />
Biodieselpictures.com   http://www.biodieselpictures.com/ <br />
<br />
<br />
Utah biodiesel supply   http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/ <br />
<br />
The Drip Tray - a collection of notes about making biodiesel    http://www.graham-laming.com/bd/main.htm]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[There was a good article in Bronco Driver Magazine this month(Sept/Oct 2008) on making Bio-D I am posting some of the reference links here. Go take a look but remember to come back here to discus it or comment.<br />
<br />
Biodiesel & SVO Forums    http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums   <br />
<br />
<br />
Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial  http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/ <br />
<br />
<br />
Biodieselpictures.com   http://www.biodieselpictures.com/ <br />
<br />
<br />
Utah biodiesel supply   http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/ <br />
<br />
The Drip Tray - a collection of notes about making biodiesel    http://www.graham-laming.com/bd/main.htm]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[hello]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=44</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 18 Jul 2008 17:47:54 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=44</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[hey yall <br />
<br />
Whats up its me soup <br />
<br />
Volts didnt know you had your site up.  Just happened across it off of Chris profile on ENH.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[hey yall <br />
<br />
Whats up its me soup <br />
<br />
Volts didnt know you had your site up.  Just happened across it off of Chris profile on ENH.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Make your own electric lawn mower!]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=43</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 08 Jul 2008 09:30:51 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=43</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[This is a great site, you can even make a solar charger for it!<br />
<br />
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Veh...eMower.htm]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[This is a great site, you can even make a solar charger for it!<br />
<br />
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Veh...eMower.htm]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[First Utility-Scale Wind Farm to Begin Operation in New Hampshire in 2008]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=42</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 30 Jun 2008 09:21:12 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=42</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[The wind farm has a 24 megawatt capacity and will provide energy to 10,500 homes<br />
<br />
August 2007<br />
New Hampshire approved its first utility-scale wind farm and became the 28th state to host a commercial wind power plant. <br />
In late June, the New Hampshire Electric Facility Site Evaluation Committee took action to begin construction of a wind power project near the town of Lempster, which is about 45 miles west of Concord. The project has been working its way toward this approval since 2003. The committee issued a Certificate of Approval (PDF 846 KB). Download Adobe Reader.<br />
"The Lempster Wind Farm is a sign of what is to come for renewable power in New England."<br />
   - Iberdrola Project Manager Ed Cherain<br />
The wind farm will have 12 wind turbines with a combined rated capacity of 24 megawatts. The facility will produce more than 70 million kilowatt-hours of electricity per year, which is enough to meet the electricity needs of about 10,500 New Hampshire homes. <br />
Iberdrola Renewable Energies USA of Wayne, Pennsylvania, is the second-largest wind energy provider in the United States. It will build and own the facility, which is expected to go online in 2008. The company is in the process of gaining approval from the Federal Energy Commission to connect to the power grid.<br />
Utility-scale wind projects have not been common in New England because construction tends to be difficult in the hilly terrain. Ed Cherian, project manger for Iberdrola, said the Lempster Wind Farm is a sign of what is to come for renewable power in New England. <br />
The new wind farm will help the state meet its goal to obtain 25% of its electricity from renewable energy resources in 2025. New Hampshire Governor John Lynch set this goal in May as part of the Renewable Energy Act.<br />
At a membership meeting in Plymouth, the New Hampshire Electric Cooperative President Fred Anderson presented plans for purchasing up to 24 megawatts of renewable power. <br />
The director of the New Hampshire Governor's Office of Energy and Planning, Amy Ignatius, also spoke at the meeting about the large number of proposals for renewable energy projects that her office is reviewing. These projects involve all forms of renewable energy resources, including biomass, wind, ocean energy, and geothermal. For details about the meeting, see the article titled, "Electric Co-Op Has Plans To Use Renewable Energy" in the June 13 edition of the Union Leader.<br />
<br />
<br />
 <br />
Source: U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[The wind farm has a 24 megawatt capacity and will provide energy to 10,500 homes<br />
<br />
August 2007<br />
New Hampshire approved its first utility-scale wind farm and became the 28th state to host a commercial wind power plant. <br />
In late June, the New Hampshire Electric Facility Site Evaluation Committee took action to begin construction of a wind power project near the town of Lempster, which is about 45 miles west of Concord. The project has been working its way toward this approval since 2003. The committee issued a Certificate of Approval (PDF 846 KB). Download Adobe Reader.<br />
"The Lempster Wind Farm is a sign of what is to come for renewable power in New England."<br />
   - Iberdrola Project Manager Ed Cherain<br />
The wind farm will have 12 wind turbines with a combined rated capacity of 24 megawatts. The facility will produce more than 70 million kilowatt-hours of electricity per year, which is enough to meet the electricity needs of about 10,500 New Hampshire homes. <br />
Iberdrola Renewable Energies USA of Wayne, Pennsylvania, is the second-largest wind energy provider in the United States. It will build and own the facility, which is expected to go online in 2008. The company is in the process of gaining approval from the Federal Energy Commission to connect to the power grid.<br />
Utility-scale wind projects have not been common in New England because construction tends to be difficult in the hilly terrain. Ed Cherian, project manger for Iberdrola, said the Lempster Wind Farm is a sign of what is to come for renewable power in New England. <br />
The new wind farm will help the state meet its goal to obtain 25% of its electricity from renewable energy resources in 2025. New Hampshire Governor John Lynch set this goal in May as part of the Renewable Energy Act.<br />
At a membership meeting in Plymouth, the New Hampshire Electric Cooperative President Fred Anderson presented plans for purchasing up to 24 megawatts of renewable power. <br />
The director of the New Hampshire Governor's Office of Energy and Planning, Amy Ignatius, also spoke at the meeting about the large number of proposals for renewable energy projects that her office is reviewing. These projects involve all forms of renewable energy resources, including biomass, wind, ocean energy, and geothermal. For details about the meeting, see the article titled, "Electric Co-Op Has Plans To Use Renewable Energy" in the June 13 edition of the Union Leader.<br />
<br />
<br />
 <br />
Source: U.S. Department of Energy - Energy Efficiency and Renewable Energy]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Data collection, got any?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=41</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 25 Jun 2008 05:31:27 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=41</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I would like to start collecting some data to help everyone get there Hydroxy boosters tweaked in. Please post vehicle type (car, truck, motorcycle, etc…) make, model, year, and also the gas generator manufacturer, or if homemade the plans used, and the specifics of electrolyte used, amp draw etc. The volume of gas produced per minute. And a few photos.<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
V&B]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I would like to start collecting some data to help everyone get there Hydroxy boosters tweaked in. Please post vehicle type (car, truck, motorcycle, etc…) make, model, year, and also the gas generator manufacturer, or if homemade the plans used, and the specifics of electrolyte used, amp draw etc. The volume of gas produced per minute. And a few photos.<br />
<br />
Thanks.<br />
V&B]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Where to get equipment]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=40</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 16:38:39 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=40</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[This is the company that made the system they used on "TRUCKS" (as seen on TV) To make bio-D<br />
<br />
http://www.freedomfuelamerica.com/index.asp]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[This is the company that made the system they used on "TRUCKS" (as seen on TV) To make bio-D<br />
<br />
http://www.freedomfuelamerica.com/index.asp]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Solar Charge Controllers]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=39</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 16:27:55 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=39</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Solar charge controllers are used in battery based photovoltaic / solar electric systems. Charge controllers protect the batteries from overcharge and/or excessive discharge. The minimum function of the charge controllers is to disconnect the solar electric array when the battery is fully discharged and to keep the battery fully charged without damage.<br />
<br />
 <br />
<br />
      The basic criteria for selecting a charge controller includes the operating voltage and the PV or solar  array current. Charge controllers are critical components in stand-alone PV systems because a controller failure can damage the batteries. The controller must be sized to handle the maximum current produced by the PV array. There are two types of charge controllers:  Series and Shunt.   Series charge controllers stop the flow of current by opening the circuit between the battery and the PV array.  Shunt charge controllers divert the PV array / solar  array current from the battery. <br />
<br />
Both types use solid state battery voltage measurement devices and shunt controllers are 100% solid state.<br />
<br />
Note: These controllers can be used with wind and hydro systems as well.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Solar charge controllers are used in battery based photovoltaic / solar electric systems. Charge controllers protect the batteries from overcharge and/or excessive discharge. The minimum function of the charge controllers is to disconnect the solar electric array when the battery is fully discharged and to keep the battery fully charged without damage.<br />
<br />
 <br />
<br />
      The basic criteria for selecting a charge controller includes the operating voltage and the PV or solar  array current. Charge controllers are critical components in stand-alone PV systems because a controller failure can damage the batteries. The controller must be sized to handle the maximum current produced by the PV array. There are two types of charge controllers:  Series and Shunt.   Series charge controllers stop the flow of current by opening the circuit between the battery and the PV array.  Shunt charge controllers divert the PV array / solar  array current from the battery. <br />
<br />
Both types use solid state battery voltage measurement devices and shunt controllers are 100% solid state.<br />
<br />
Note: These controllers can be used with wind and hydro systems as well.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Micro-Hydroelectric Power]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=38</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:56:29 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=38</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Mirco-turbines are DC generators designed to be 12, 24 or 48 volt battery chargers, operating from a relatively small volume of water. They charge batteries 24 hours a day and the power can be drawn from the battery as needed, As little as 100 gallons per minute (GPM) falling 10 feet through a pipe, or 5 gallons per minute falling 200 feet through a pipe, can supply enough power to comfortably run a small household. In areas where there is a long rainy season and a mountain stream that can be used, a small hydro system can work well with solar modules, both charging the same battery. When it is rainy and the solar modules are putting out less power, the hydroelectric system wilt be at its peak.  Our small AC hydroelectric units use induction generators and are designed to operate isolated from the grid.<br />
<br />
By contrast, larger typical AC power hydroelectric systems, designed to deliver ready-to-use 120/240 VAC power, are not practical for most people because they need a constant water supply large enough to supply the peak power output that will be required, usually a minimum of several thousand watts, requiring hundreds or even thousands of gallons per minute, depending upon the pressure available. Besides requiring large amounts of water, these turbines require large pipe diameters and expensive regulating systems that can maintain proper frequency and voltage at all times.  <br />
 <br />
How much power can you generate?<br />
The amount of power available depends on the dynamic head, the amount of water flow and the efficiency of the turbine/generator combination. To get an idea about available power in watts, multiply the head in feet, times flow in GPM, times 0.18 times efficiency. The combined efficiency of the turbine and generator ranges from 40% to 80%, with higher efficiency at higher heads and for larger generators. To get a rough idea, use 0.50 (representing 50%) as a multiplier for efficiency.   Here are example computations using the minimum parameters mentioned above.<br />
<br />
10 ft x 100 gpm x 0.18 x 0.50 eff = 90 watts<br />
200 ft x 5 gpm x 0.18 x 0.50 eff = 90 watts<br />
<br />
<br />
Estimated Power Output:  assuming 50% system efficiency<br />
Estimated Energy Output:  per month<br />
Head Losses:  assuming 20% off static head<br />
Minimum Pipe Diameter: Assumes single PVC Class 130 pipe of one size run whole distance from turbine to water supply.   All flow dedicated to this one turbine.<br />
NOTE: Above figures are for estimating purposes only. At high heads and higher power outputs overall efficiency will be better than the 50% assumed here. Use only piping that is rated for maximum pressures available with a safety factor.  PVC pipe is available with pressure ratings from 160 to 350 psi.  For higher pressures use steel pipe.<br />
<br />
Pipelines<br />
A hydroelectric turbine operates from the pressure at the bottom end of a pipeline. This pressure, usually measured in pounds per square inch (PSI), is directly related to the head, or vertical distance from where the water goes into the pipe at the top of the pipeline, to the turbine located at the bottom of the pipeline. The pressure at the lowest point of a pipeline is equal to 0.433 times the vertical distance in feet, called head. Pressure is important because it is a determining factor in how much power is available and what type of pipe is required. Polyethylene pipe can be used for pressures up to 100 PSI, PVC pipe is available with pressure ratings from 160 to 350 PSI and steel pipe can withstand 1000 PSI or more. Check with your local plumbing supplier for pipe ratings.<br />
Pipe diameter is very important. All pipelines will cause the water flowing in them to lose some energy due to friction. The pipe must be large enough for the maximum quantity of water it will carry. The pressure at the bottom of a pipeline when water is not flowing is called static pressure. When water is flowing through the outlet or nozzle of the hydroelectric turbine, the pressure at the outlet is the dynamic pressure or running head. See graph below for pipe losses.<br />
 <br />
If you install a gate valve on the pipeline just above the turbine and a pressure gauge on a "T" fitting just above the gate valve, you will read the static pressure on the gauge when the valve is closed and the dynamic pressure when the valve is opened. The maximum power that can be delivered by a pipeline will occur when the dynamic pressure is approximately 2/3 of the static pressure. The actual flow rate of the water in a hydroelectric system is determined by the diameter of the nozzle. We will supply a turbine with the proper size nozzle for your site, depending on the head, flow, length and diameter of the pipe. <br />
The power examples above can be adjusted for this pressure drop by subtracting it from the head.  If 3 inch pipe is used for the 100 gpm example and 1 inch pipe is used in the 5 gpm example, and the pipes are 200 feet long, we have:<br />
(10 ft - 3 ft x 2) x 100 gpm x 0.18 x 0.50 eff = 36 watts<br />
(200 ft - 2.6 ft x 2) x 5 gpm x 0.18 x 0.50 eff = 88 watts<br />
It is apparent from these examples that pipe losses can be significant in high flow rate designs.<br />
We carry hydroelectric generators made by Energy Systems and Design and the Harris Hydroelectric company. Use the descriptions in our online catalog to help determine which turbine will work better for your site and power requirements.  We also offer larger turbines rated up to 1 MW from Canyon Industries. <br />
 <br />
Nozzle Selection<br />
Power output of a hydroelectric generator is determined by the pressure of the water at the nozzle and the amount of water flowing out of the nozzle.  The larger the nozzle, the greater the flow will be.  The nozzle must also be sized small enough to keep your pipeline full and keep the speed of the water in the pipe below 5 feet per second.<br />
The nozzle selection chart below shows water flow through various size nozzles at given pressures.  Use this chart to determine what size nozzle and how many nozzles you need to accommodate the flow of water you have and to deliver the amount of power you need.<br />
 <br />
If you have good mechanical ability you can assemble your own small hydroelectric system.  The runner is the most difficult part to make, but you can buy one from us, make your own housing and get a generator locally.<br />
A pressure gauge in the pipe feeding your turbine, installed before the shutoff valve, can help you check proper operation and diagnose problems.  When the valve is shut off the gauge will read the static pressure in pounds per square inch or psi (head in feet x 0.433).  When the valve is turned on the gauge will read a lower pressure.   The difference between these two pressures represents your loss due to friction in the pipe.  The greater the flow, the greater your loss will be.<br />
 <br />
Measuring Head & Flow<br />
To determine the feasibility of your stream or pond for producing electricity you must estimate the head and flow.<br />
The Head measurement can be performed using several techniques.  A garden hose can be routed from the upper end of the stream at the prospective intake location down to the lower elevation where you might locate the turbine.  Allow the stream to fill the hose until water flows out of the lower end.  Then raise the lower end until the water just stops spilling out of the hose.  Measure the height between the end of the hose down to the planned location of the turbine.  This measurement in feet is the static head.  If the distance or height is too great to measure using a single section of hose, join several sections together.  Or, make several intermediate measurements using this technique and add the heads together.<br />
Alternative methods include use of a surveyor's transit, or a carpenter's level and measuring stick, or an altimeter.<br />
Flow can be measured by channeling the water into a pipe using a temporary dam to fill a container of known volume.  Divide the container volume in gallons by the time to fill in minutes to get gallons per minute (gpm).<br />
A more versatile method is to use a weir.  Cut a rectangular opening in one edge of a board or piece of sheet metal.  Then set this in the stream to act like a dam with the water flowing through the opening.  Measure the depth of the water flowing through the rectangle and the width of the rectangle.  <br />
 <br />
Note that because the surface of the stream as it approaches the weir may fall as the water accelerates toward the opening be sure to measure the depth at least 1-4 feet behind (up stream) of the weir.  See diagram below.<br />
 <br />
Using this measurement go to the chart below and read the value in gpm of the flow through a 1" width of the rectangle.  Multiply by the total width to get total flow.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
Rebates & Incentives<br />
Many states offer financial incentives for installing alternative energy systems.  Some of these may apply to hydroelectric systems.  <br />
 <br />
<br />
If you think you have a suitable site,  choose the best unit for your situation. Determine the following information about your site.<br />
1. Head - The total vertical elevation from the place where the water enters the pipe to the point where the turbine will be located.<br />
2. Flow - The number of gallons per minute that are available.<br />
3. Distance - The length of pipe that will be necessary to carry the water from the pickup to the turbine. If the pipe is already installed, what is the type and diameter?<br />
4. Location - Distance from turbine to batteries. <br />
 <br />
Do some more research, you can never know too much!<br />
<br />
Source: nooutage.com]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Mirco-turbines are DC generators designed to be 12, 24 or 48 volt battery chargers, operating from a relatively small volume of water. They charge batteries 24 hours a day and the power can be drawn from the battery as needed, As little as 100 gallons per minute (GPM) falling 10 feet through a pipe, or 5 gallons per minute falling 200 feet through a pipe, can supply enough power to comfortably run a small household. In areas where there is a long rainy season and a mountain stream that can be used, a small hydro system can work well with solar modules, both charging the same battery. When it is rainy and the solar modules are putting out less power, the hydroelectric system wilt be at its peak.  Our small AC hydroelectric units use induction generators and are designed to operate isolated from the grid.<br />
<br />
By contrast, larger typical AC power hydroelectric systems, designed to deliver ready-to-use 120/240 VAC power, are not practical for most people because they need a constant water supply large enough to supply the peak power output that will be required, usually a minimum of several thousand watts, requiring hundreds or even thousands of gallons per minute, depending upon the pressure available. Besides requiring large amounts of water, these turbines require large pipe diameters and expensive regulating systems that can maintain proper frequency and voltage at all times.  <br />
 <br />
How much power can you generate?<br />
The amount of power available depends on the dynamic head, the amount of water flow and the efficiency of the turbine/generator combination. To get an idea about available power in watts, multiply the head in feet, times flow in GPM, times 0.18 times efficiency. The combined efficiency of the turbine and generator ranges from 40% to 80%, with higher efficiency at higher heads and for larger generators. To get a rough idea, use 0.50 (representing 50%) as a multiplier for efficiency.   Here are example computations using the minimum parameters mentioned above.<br />
<br />
10 ft x 100 gpm x 0.18 x 0.50 eff = 90 watts<br />
200 ft x 5 gpm x 0.18 x 0.50 eff = 90 watts<br />
<br />
<br />
Estimated Power Output:  assuming 50% system efficiency<br />
Estimated Energy Output:  per month<br />
Head Losses:  assuming 20% off static head<br />
Minimum Pipe Diameter: Assumes single PVC Class 130 pipe of one size run whole distance from turbine to water supply.   All flow dedicated to this one turbine.<br />
NOTE: Above figures are for estimating purposes only. At high heads and higher power outputs overall efficiency will be better than the 50% assumed here. Use only piping that is rated for maximum pressures available with a safety factor.  PVC pipe is available with pressure ratings from 160 to 350 psi.  For higher pressures use steel pipe.<br />
<br />
Pipelines<br />
A hydroelectric turbine operates from the pressure at the bottom end of a pipeline. This pressure, usually measured in pounds per square inch (PSI), is directly related to the head, or vertical distance from where the water goes into the pipe at the top of the pipeline, to the turbine located at the bottom of the pipeline. The pressure at the lowest point of a pipeline is equal to 0.433 times the vertical distance in feet, called head. Pressure is important because it is a determining factor in how much power is available and what type of pipe is required. Polyethylene pipe can be used for pressures up to 100 PSI, PVC pipe is available with pressure ratings from 160 to 350 PSI and steel pipe can withstand 1000 PSI or more. Check with your local plumbing supplier for pipe ratings.<br />
Pipe diameter is very important. All pipelines will cause the water flowing in them to lose some energy due to friction. The pipe must be large enough for the maximum quantity of water it will carry. The pressure at the bottom of a pipeline when water is not flowing is called static pressure. When water is flowing through the outlet or nozzle of the hydroelectric turbine, the pressure at the outlet is the dynamic pressure or running head. See graph below for pipe losses.<br />
 <br />
If you install a gate valve on the pipeline just above the turbine and a pressure gauge on a "T" fitting just above the gate valve, you will read the static pressure on the gauge when the valve is closed and the dynamic pressure when the valve is opened. The maximum power that can be delivered by a pipeline will occur when the dynamic pressure is approximately 2/3 of the static pressure. The actual flow rate of the water in a hydroelectric system is determined by the diameter of the nozzle. We will supply a turbine with the proper size nozzle for your site, depending on the head, flow, length and diameter of the pipe. <br />
The power examples above can be adjusted for this pressure drop by subtracting it from the head.  If 3 inch pipe is used for the 100 gpm example and 1 inch pipe is used in the 5 gpm example, and the pipes are 200 feet long, we have:<br />
(10 ft - 3 ft x 2) x 100 gpm x 0.18 x 0.50 eff = 36 watts<br />
(200 ft - 2.6 ft x 2) x 5 gpm x 0.18 x 0.50 eff = 88 watts<br />
It is apparent from these examples that pipe losses can be significant in high flow rate designs.<br />
We carry hydroelectric generators made by Energy Systems and Design and the Harris Hydroelectric company. Use the descriptions in our online catalog to help determine which turbine will work better for your site and power requirements.  We also offer larger turbines rated up to 1 MW from Canyon Industries. <br />
 <br />
Nozzle Selection<br />
Power output of a hydroelectric generator is determined by the pressure of the water at the nozzle and the amount of water flowing out of the nozzle.  The larger the nozzle, the greater the flow will be.  The nozzle must also be sized small enough to keep your pipeline full and keep the speed of the water in the pipe below 5 feet per second.<br />
The nozzle selection chart below shows water flow through various size nozzles at given pressures.  Use this chart to determine what size nozzle and how many nozzles you need to accommodate the flow of water you have and to deliver the amount of power you need.<br />
 <br />
If you have good mechanical ability you can assemble your own small hydroelectric system.  The runner is the most difficult part to make, but you can buy one from us, make your own housing and get a generator locally.<br />
A pressure gauge in the pipe feeding your turbine, installed before the shutoff valve, can help you check proper operation and diagnose problems.  When the valve is shut off the gauge will read the static pressure in pounds per square inch or psi (head in feet x 0.433).  When the valve is turned on the gauge will read a lower pressure.   The difference between these two pressures represents your loss due to friction in the pipe.  The greater the flow, the greater your loss will be.<br />
 <br />
Measuring Head & Flow<br />
To determine the feasibility of your stream or pond for producing electricity you must estimate the head and flow.<br />
The Head measurement can be performed using several techniques.  A garden hose can be routed from the upper end of the stream at the prospective intake location down to the lower elevation where you might locate the turbine.  Allow the stream to fill the hose until water flows out of the lower end.  Then raise the lower end until the water just stops spilling out of the hose.  Measure the height between the end of the hose down to the planned location of the turbine.  This measurement in feet is the static head.  If the distance or height is too great to measure using a single section of hose, join several sections together.  Or, make several intermediate measurements using this technique and add the heads together.<br />
Alternative methods include use of a surveyor's transit, or a carpenter's level and measuring stick, or an altimeter.<br />
Flow can be measured by channeling the water into a pipe using a temporary dam to fill a container of known volume.  Divide the container volume in gallons by the time to fill in minutes to get gallons per minute (gpm).<br />
A more versatile method is to use a weir.  Cut a rectangular opening in one edge of a board or piece of sheet metal.  Then set this in the stream to act like a dam with the water flowing through the opening.  Measure the depth of the water flowing through the rectangle and the width of the rectangle.  <br />
 <br />
Note that because the surface of the stream as it approaches the weir may fall as the water accelerates toward the opening be sure to measure the depth at least 1-4 feet behind (up stream) of the weir.  See diagram below.<br />
 <br />
Using this measurement go to the chart below and read the value in gpm of the flow through a 1" width of the rectangle.  Multiply by the total width to get total flow.<br />
 <br />
 <br />
Rebates & Incentives<br />
Many states offer financial incentives for installing alternative energy systems.  Some of these may apply to hydroelectric systems.  <br />
 <br />
<br />
If you think you have a suitable site,  choose the best unit for your situation. Determine the following information about your site.<br />
1. Head - The total vertical elevation from the place where the water enters the pipe to the point where the turbine will be located.<br />
2. Flow - The number of gallons per minute that are available.<br />
3. Distance - The length of pipe that will be necessary to carry the water from the pickup to the turbine. If the pipe is already installed, what is the type and diameter?<br />
4. Location - Distance from turbine to batteries. <br />
 <br />
Do some more research, you can never know too much!<br />
<br />
Source: nooutage.com]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[How about a yummy smoothie!]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=37</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 15:29:36 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=37</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Try this one:P<br />
http://food.yahoo.com/recipes/eatingwell...p-smoothie]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Try this one:P<br />
http://food.yahoo.com/recipes/eatingwell...p-smoothie]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Fuel Additives]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=36</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 14:42:26 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=36</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I'm not too sure if this stuff works, has anyone used it? I'd like to hear from you.;)<br />
<br />
http://www.double-your-mileage.info/?OVR...6700833021<br />
<br />
<br />
Or this one?<br />
http://www.bestfuelmpg.com/]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I'm not too sure if this stuff works, has anyone used it? I'd like to hear from you.;)<br />
<br />
http://www.double-your-mileage.info/?OVR...6700833021<br />
<br />
<br />
Or this one?<br />
http://www.bestfuelmpg.com/]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Testing, 1, 2, 3...]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=35</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 13:58:59 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=35</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Yep it works!:)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Yep it works!:)]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[You don't still use a screen saver, do you?]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=34</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 13:54:31 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=34</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[By Don Willmott , Forecast Earth Correspondent Posted Wed Jun 11, 2008 6:36pm PDT <br />
I'm happy that at this stage in my career I often find myself writing articles about energy-efficient ways to use computers, peripherals, gadgets, and consumer electronics. It makes me feel so, you know, virtuous.<br />
Whenever I crank out a list of helpful hints, one of the first items I include is this obvious but often overlooked gem of advice: Kill your stupid screen saver. In the good old days of tube monitors, screen savers such as those unforgettable flying toasters were invented to prevent burn-in, a permanent shadow branded into the phosphors of your monitor by a static image of, say, a spreadsheet that you left on your screen all weekend.<br />
Well, flat-screen LCD monitors don't burn in, so if you still have flying toasters or an endlessly looping slide show of your adorable niece and nephew, you're behind the times. When you're not sitting in front of your monitor it should be off off off.<br />
It warmed my heart to read at Green Daily that Telstra, the biggest phone company in Australia, has removed all the corporate screen savers from the 36,000 computers in its offices. What will happen? The change will cut tons of CO2, which they claim will be the equivalent of taking 140 cars off the road for a year. Good on ya, mate. Follow Telstra's example. Let your flying toasters crash and burn.<br />
Don Willmott's blog posts are provided by LifeWire, a part of The New York Times Company.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[By Don Willmott , Forecast Earth Correspondent Posted Wed Jun 11, 2008 6:36pm PDT <br />
I'm happy that at this stage in my career I often find myself writing articles about energy-efficient ways to use computers, peripherals, gadgets, and consumer electronics. It makes me feel so, you know, virtuous.<br />
Whenever I crank out a list of helpful hints, one of the first items I include is this obvious but often overlooked gem of advice: Kill your stupid screen saver. In the good old days of tube monitors, screen savers such as those unforgettable flying toasters were invented to prevent burn-in, a permanent shadow branded into the phosphors of your monitor by a static image of, say, a spreadsheet that you left on your screen all weekend.<br />
Well, flat-screen LCD monitors don't burn in, so if you still have flying toasters or an endlessly looping slide show of your adorable niece and nephew, you're behind the times. When you're not sitting in front of your monitor it should be off off off.<br />
It warmed my heart to read at Green Daily that Telstra, the biggest phone company in Australia, has removed all the corporate screen savers from the 36,000 computers in its offices. What will happen? The change will cut tons of CO2, which they claim will be the equivalent of taking 140 cars off the road for a year. Good on ya, mate. Follow Telstra's example. Let your flying toasters crash and burn.<br />
Don Willmott's blog posts are provided by LifeWire, a part of The New York Times Company.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Wave Power]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=33</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 09:56:59 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=33</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[It is estimated that wave power rating of 15-20 kW/m and higher is considered economically viable.<br />
<br />
<br />
(Distribution of annual average wave power in kW per meter wave crest)<br />
<br />
Countries active in wave power research & development: <br />
Australia, Canada, Denmark, France, Ireland, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, South Africa, Spain, United Kingdom, United States<br />
Global wave power at deep water is estimated to be 1.3 terawatts ( 1 300 000 000 000 kW )<br />
The global economic resource from waves above 30 kW/m could be as high as &#36; 70 - &#36; 390 billion<br />
using off-shore or near shore wave generators<br />
<br />
From: Energen Int]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[It is estimated that wave power rating of 15-20 kW/m and higher is considered economically viable.<br />
<br />
<br />
(Distribution of annual average wave power in kW per meter wave crest)<br />
<br />
Countries active in wave power research & development: <br />
Australia, Canada, Denmark, France, Ireland, Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, South Africa, Spain, United Kingdom, United States<br />
Global wave power at deep water is estimated to be 1.3 terawatts ( 1 300 000 000 000 kW )<br />
The global economic resource from waves above 30 kW/m could be as high as &#36; 70 - &#36; 390 billion<br />
using off-shore or near shore wave generators<br />
<br />
From: Energen Int]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[solar water heaters]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=32</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 05:50:28 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=32</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Just reading about this - with NH electric so expensive this is a great alternative.<br />
http://www.solarenergy.com/ws400CS.cgi?c...l&cart_id=]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Just reading about this - with NH electric so expensive this is a great alternative.<br />
http://www.solarenergy.com/ws400CS.cgi?c...l&cart_id=]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Solar position calculator/animator]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=31</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 22 Jun 2008 12:33:57 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=31</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Designed/being designed by The Nebraska Astronomy Applet Project.<br />
<br />
More about the project here:<br />
http://astro.unl.edu/naap/splash/overview.html<br />
<br />
<br />
Calculator:<br />
http://astro.unl.edu/naap/motion3/animat...tions.html]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Designed/being designed by The Nebraska Astronomy Applet Project.<br />
<br />
More about the project here:<br />
http://astro.unl.edu/naap/splash/overview.html<br />
<br />
<br />
Calculator:<br />
http://astro.unl.edu/naap/motion3/animat...tions.html]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[V&amp;#x26;B Build log and testing.]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=30</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Jun 2008 09:51:29 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=30</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[My long term plane is to build a HHO generator and see what kind of effect it has on my old truck. The short term plan is to make some basic changes to the truck and record the results.<br />
<br />
The test subject is a 1991 Mazda B2600i Space Cab, 5speed, 2wd with 107500 miles. I have established a base line for MPG of 25.5 not bad for 17 year old truck.<br />
<br />
I changed the air filter, (it needed it badly) and rechecked the MPG. It dropped to 23 MPG?  After scratching my head and troubleshooting for a wile I discovered I had developed a slow leak in the fuel tank, weeping out of the seam and evaporating. Will repair and retest.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[My long term plane is to build a HHO generator and see what kind of effect it has on my old truck. The short term plan is to make some basic changes to the truck and record the results.<br />
<br />
The test subject is a 1991 Mazda B2600i Space Cab, 5speed, 2wd with 107500 miles. I have established a base line for MPG of 25.5 not bad for 17 year old truck.<br />
<br />
I changed the air filter, (it needed it badly) and rechecked the MPG. It dropped to 23 MPG?  After scratching my head and troubleshooting for a wile I discovered I had developed a slow leak in the fuel tank, weeping out of the seam and evaporating. Will repair and retest.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[How Hydroxy Gas Adds MPG, HP, and Cleans Emissions]]></title>
			<link>http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=29</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Jun 2008 09:33:42 -0700</pubDate>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.voltsandboltsonline.com/showthread.php?tid=29</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[How Hydroxy Gas Adds MPG, HP, and Cleans Emissions <br />
 <br />
<br />
Hydroxy gas is a hydrogen blend made from water. This cocktail of hydrogen and oxygen, also known as HHO,  enhances fuel combustion. Our engines current combustion cycle doesn't utilize all of the fuel. Some of the fuel is exhausted. This otherwise wasted fuel can be used. When you enhance the combustion, giving a more complete burn, you enhance MPG. Your simply using more of your fuel. Your also adding another fuel source, so you have to use less fuel.<br />
<br />
Hydroxy gas is introduced into the intake manifold. Instead of the normal air, your introducing a hydrogen blend. This blend is a super efficient fuel. Normal gasoline and diesel molecules clump together, it's hard for them to be fully utilized. When you add hydroxy to the equation you get a more complete burn. These clumped together molecules get used up, instead of some being used, then the rest exhausted. The hydroxy makes a smoother cooler more complete burn of your fuel.<br />
This accounts for the cleaner exhaust, added horsepower and additional MPG.<br />
<br />
Notice That Smooth Idle? <br />
Burn Cheapy Gas Like High Octane<br />
 As soon as you introduce hydroxy into your intake manifold, you'll notice a smoother running engine. Not only is your engine running smoother it's running cooler too.<br />
<br />
So Why Can We Run Even Cheap Gas?<br />
Most of the gas you find comes from the same refinery. The only difference from Chevron to Your local cash only pump, is the detergents and additives that company put in. More than likely the gas you get at Chevron or similar stations came from the same refinery source, Exxon is a big one. So Chevron puts in some detergent and additives sticks on the Chevron sticker, along with the price tag.<br />
<br />
You will get additional MPG with higher octane..., but why pay the price? You can get even better results than high octane with hydroxy. The reason high octane reduces pinging and gives better MPG, is that it has a slower more controlled burn. One of the properties of hydroxy is the cooler flame. Your engine will thank you too. Your reward will be an extended lifetime of use. You can load up on the cheapest gas in town, and run like premium, all for the cost of water.<br />
Heck !! You'll be visiting stations A LOT less too!<br />
Hydroxy Fuel Cell Tips <br />
Here are some tips to add longevity and efficiency to your fuel cells<br />
 I know you get more hydroxy out of tap water... but! here's the trade off.<br />
Tap water will erode your electrodes and cause that brown gunk in your water. The added minerals in tap water add to conductivity too. You want full control of the conductivity, as this leads to heat build up, if not controlled.<br />
If your having trouble with heat build up, here are some remedies:<br />
<br />
* Use purified water<br />
* Reduce your catalyst<br />
* Use a PWM (Pulse Width Modulator)<br />
* Reduce your electrodes<br />
* Add neutral electrodes to create resistors<br />
<br />
If your worried about your fuel cell freezing up, in cold weather, add 20% denatured alcohol. The alcohol will prevent your cell from freezing in cold weather and won't inhibit hydroxy output.<br />
<br />
Never run your cell without a check valve or your bubbler. You don't want flashback...<br />
<br />
If you notice discoloration of your electrodes and brown buildup in your water, it might be the initial oil in the stainless steel. Just dump out your water and start with a fresh batch. The quality of the stainless steel also plays a factor in discoloration. This isn't a big deal, just keep your water clean to reduce premature electrode wear.<br />
<br />
Above all else, enjoy your savings. Your wallet our Earth and your engine will thank you.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[How Hydroxy Gas Adds MPG, HP, and Cleans Emissions <br />
 <br />
<br />
Hydroxy gas is a hydrogen blend made from water. This cocktail of hydrogen and oxygen, also known as HHO,  enhances fuel combustion. Our engines current combustion cycle doesn't utilize all of the fuel. Some of the fuel is exhausted. This otherwise wasted fuel can be used. When you enhance the combustion, giving a more complete burn, you enhance MPG. Your simply using more of your fuel. Your also adding another fuel source, so you have to use less fuel.<br />
<br />
Hydroxy gas is introduced into the intake manifold. Instead of the normal air, your introducing a hydrogen blend. This blend is a super efficient fuel. Normal gasoline and diesel molecules clump together, it's hard for them to be fully utilized. When you add hydroxy to the equation you get a more complete burn. These clumped together molecules get used up, instead of some being used, then the rest exhausted. The hydroxy makes a smoother cooler more complete burn of your fuel.<br />
This accounts for the cleaner exhaust, added horsepower and additional MPG.<br />
<br />
Notice That Smooth Idle? <br />
Burn Cheapy Gas Like High Octane<br />
 As soon as you introduce hydroxy into your intake manifold, you'll notice a smoother running engine. Not only is your engine running smoother it's running cooler too.<br />
<br />
So Why Can We Run Even Cheap Gas?<br />
Most of the gas you find comes from the same refinery. The only difference from Chevron to Your local cash only pump, is the detergents and additives that company put in. More than likely the gas you get at Chevron or similar stations came from the same refinery source, Exxon is a big one. So Chevron puts in some detergent and additives sticks on the Chevron sticker, along with the price tag.<br />
<br />
You will get additional MPG with higher octane..., but why pay the price? You can get even better results than high octane with hydroxy. The reason high octane reduces pinging and gives better MPG, is that it has a slower more controlled burn. One of the properties of hydroxy is the cooler flame. Your engine will thank you too. Your reward will be an extended lifetime of use. You can load up on the cheapest gas in town, and run like premium, all for the cost of water.<br />
Heck !! You'll be visiting stations A LOT less too!<br />
Hydroxy Fuel Cell Tips <br />
Here are some tips to add longevity and efficiency to your fuel cells<br />
 I know you get more hydroxy out of tap water... but! here's the trade off.<br />
Tap water will erode your electrodes and cause that brown gunk in your water. The added minerals in tap water add to conductivity too. You want full control of the conductivity, as this leads to heat build up, if not controlled.<br />
If your having trouble with heat build up, here are some remedies:<br />
<br />
* Use purified water<br />
* Reduce your catalyst<br />
* Use a PWM (Pulse Width Modulator)<br />
* Reduce your electrodes<br />
* Add neutral electrodes to create resistors<br />
<br />
If your worried about your fuel cell freezing up, in cold weather, add 20% denatured alcohol. The alcohol will prevent your cell from freezing in cold weather and won't inhibit hydroxy output.<br />
<br />
Never run your cell without a check valve or your bubbler. You don't want flashback...<br />
<br />
If you notice discoloration of your electrodes and brown buildup in your water, it might be the initial oil in the stainless steel. Just dump out your water and start with a fresh batch. The quality of the stainless steel also plays a factor in discoloration. This isn't a big deal, just keep your water clean to reduce premature electrode wear.<br />
<br />
Above all else, enjoy your savings. Your wallet our Earth and your engine will thank you.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
	</channel>
</rss>